First Time buys

[sasimpson]

Just a thread for asking about new gear recommendations for first time buyers

To start. I want to buy me a rope. What are the recommendations?

[Duckfeet]

Get a 60m single. A thinner single will be lighter and easier to work with but dearer. It will also take less abuse than a heavy thick rope before you have to scrap it. Your call. Personally I have a 9.8mm which is a lot thicker than a joker 9.1mm, for example, but it doesn't need to be lighter, I can just man up and carry the extra kilo. Other than that make sure you get a golden dry/superdry/dry treated rope, they have different names for different brands. irish trad needs dry treated ropes, there is too much muck, rain and sea crags. Also you can use the rope in snow without worry. And as sexy as a bright blue rope is, the colour will just fade with time anyway

[Browne-Bear]

Agree with Michael.

For a first time buyer of a rope I would advocate a single 60m (or even a 70m if you can source it - enables you to do full thirty metre abseils without worry). Some would say buy half ropes on account that eventually you will use them more than you will a single - but that is silly for a number of reasons.

1. Using a single 60m rope will "train" you to extend your gear properly to prevent rope drag. It will ensure that you know when to extend gear and when not to.

2. Most routes that a beginner to trad will climb will not warrant the use of half ropes, and can be done easily with a single 60m rope. In fact, quite a few top end VS/HVS/E1's can also be done with a single rope (even ones at Fairhead). Half ropes can therefore become "faff ropes."

Thickness wise, 9.6-10mm is perfect. 10mm ones will take a bit more abuse, 9.6/9.8mm will be lighter and easier to work with.

Also, make sure they are dry treated/superdry - its not that you will worry about the rope, it will just mean you will need to give a non superdry more TLC than a superdry rope. Make sure you clean it every once in a while, and especially after sea cliff climbing (Gola/Donegal Trip).

Have a look at Mammut, Beal, Edelrid. (The new club ones from Mammut are great - have a look at them) They make good ropes, and you will be surprised what deals you can find online.

P.S: I'm quite reserved about buying ropes from UKC and eBay on account that you don't fully know its climbing history, and you are taking someones word for it. People have got away with it before (like Michael) and bought brand new and very nice ropes. Just always be a bit careful. Most online stores are grand.

P.P.S: Half ropes are the job though, despite what I said above. Especially for Scottish and Alpine stuff - allows you to do full 60m abseils very easily.

[bojo]

I would agree on the single rope point made above by El Gearo del diablo and El Presidenté. If you do see a good offer on a non superdry rope don't ignore it. They require a little more care and aren't really ideal for winter stuff but a good deal is a good deal. for a first rope, all you really need to look at is 60 metres, cheap and not from Ebay. You will get a good amount of use out of it and when you are climbing harder you will convert it to an ab rope/tat and get awesome half ropes! They are as Nial said.. The Job!
Also Niall you sould update your post to "Especially at Fairhead"... Fairhead is crack climbing and perfect for a single (though Halfs are easier for retrievable abs / bitching' 3 person multipitchin' and anchors)

[sasimpson]

Tips on Buying a helmet?

[Rónán K]

Depends what you want to do with it. There's 3 main kinds of helmet - Hardshell Helmets (Petzl Ecrin Roc) Hybrid Helmets (Petzl Elios, BD Half Dome) and Foam Helmets (Petzl Meteor III, BD Vector).
Hardshells are tough but heavy, good for kayaking and caving as well or centre use and pretty robust. They're no good for side impacts.
Foam helmets are really light and quite strong. THey give far better side impact protection than hardshells and can generally be used as cycling helmets as well. THey're not as robust though and are more easily damaged.
Hybrids are a bit of a compromise, they give reasonably good side impact protection and are lighter than hardshells but heavier than foam helmets. THey're generally a good compromise and are good for all round sort of mountaineering/climbing/winter climbing etc. I have one (Elios).

Loads of good info here.
www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=629

So my advice is...
If you're only looking to do rock stuff, get a foam helmet, they're the lightest and will protect you more than adequately. If you're looking for more all-round stuff, get a Hybrid - Half Dome, Elios, whatever's most comfortable. Can't fault the Elios.

[Browne-Bear]

I would advocate the new BD Half Dome. They have redesigned the shape of the helmet to offer better coverage of the side and back of the head. It also seems to be made of a tougher plastic as well - leaning almost on the quality of the Ecrin-Roc type helmet. Club has one in the store if you want to have a look at it...

[bojo]

Niall... Buy a helmet and stop scrounging off the club!

[gilmo]

nout wrong with scrounging!
also for first time buyers
-use club/other peoples gear as much as possible. then decide what you like
-never pay full price

as far as ropes go. I wouldn't bother with a 60 single. It'll come into it's own when you go sport climbing but everyone has one and theres plenty of club ones. If you're interested in winter stuff, a pair of 60s is what you want (long pitches/ abseils etc). If it's only rock in ireland/UK a pair of 50s would be perfect except for a very small number of routes.

For helmets BD half-dome / petzl elios (HB carbon dyneema if you can find one) will cover everything you want pretty light and pretty tough. Get a petzl meteor if you do very safe climbing, you'll have to spend £50 every time you get hit in the head.

regarding gear, all the modern stuff is brilliant. People will tell some products are better than others but pay no heed, such people just like what they're used to/own.
the exception to this is tricams, they are possibly the most versatile, useful pieces of gear ever. people will tell you the are useless only if they are very thick and have trouble peeling bananas
you can get lots of barely used items on ukc for large discounts.

buy wiregate quickdraws, they are lighter. also buy some 60cm slings so you can make extenders

Buy mountaineering boots that fit and buy crampons that fit the boots. you will regret not following that advice.

Buy all round iceaxes. eg dmm fly, grivel matrix/quantum light etc. steep ice tools such as petzl nomics, bd reactors, dmm anarchist etc are overkill.waste of money at the beginner/intermediate level.

DON'T BUT OLD SOVIET ICE SCREWS

own many buffs

Don't waste lots of money on gloves, they all leak. The most waterproof glove is the marigold, use in tandem with woolen gloves. The warmest is the mitten you can take your hand out of it to fiddle with gear.

Wear really supportive underwear, you will come to love the groinal hug on those long, cold, dark winter days in the hills.

eat a hearty breakfast

read a good book

have a nice cup of tea



any other gear genre i've forgotten?

[Rónán K]

good sleeping bag, alek repellant, and lovely jumper

[joh]

I disagree on one point, so just to add another perspective to Conor's,

BUY OLD SOVIET ICE SCREWS OFF REPUTABLE SALESPERSONS SUCH AS MYSELF

[Browne-Bear]

Conor speaks the truth - nout wrong with scrounging!! When I get a helmet, I'll let you know.

Also, John is not reputable - FACT!