Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Post by Rónán K on Jul 22, 2012 1:56:19 GMT 1
The peg is solid. I know this from first hand experience today. Bring your tricams and get on it, it's not as desperate as it seems!
Try not to fall off before the peg though> I cannot vouch for any of the rest of the gear.
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Post by bojo on Jul 23, 2012 9:49:46 GMT 1
Does the peg protect the crux? Might be one for the end of the year. I want to get a few E3s under my belt before trying it. decrease the possibility of death.
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Post by Rónán K on Jul 23, 2012 18:29:30 GMT 1
Protects the second crux. The psychological crux is a barndoory crimpy blind foothold traverse thing just above what I incorrectly thought were 2 good tricams. IF they don't hold you're in trouble. Marconi's a safer one to jump on I'd say
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Post by bojo on Jul 23, 2012 23:53:06 GMT 1
Most E3s would be safer! I was going to do Dreams and Disappointments at the weekend but in came the Scotch Mist. The crux looks nails
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Post by Rónán K on Jul 24, 2012 13:56:25 GMT 1
Ah but it's a 'proper' E3 with a 6a crux. I'll stick to the 5cs for now!
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Post by bojo on Jul 24, 2012 17:05:34 GMT 1
Good choice... Keep falling off those Bold E3s that will end well... Surely if you are going to push your grade you should be doing it on safer routes e.g. 6a?
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Post by Browne-Bear on Jul 24, 2012 18:39:56 GMT 1
Even though I was seconding, the psychological crux as Ronan stated was definately quite difficult. The crux though was just after you clip the peg. Slopping crack that you kind of have to layback. Think it was more just the commitment of placing your feet properly and in the right sequence (as with most climbing cruxs). Excellent route, smashing lead by Ronan.
Also, the tricams were probably safer than you think. They were kind of counterbalancing each other.
Would advocate doing a few more E3's before trying it though.
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Post by Rónán K on Jul 24, 2012 21:09:46 GMT 1
In my defence, I like Hen climbing. It's not that hard. BEsides, don't want to wreck my tendons pulling hard moves... aye.
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Post by bojo on Jul 25, 2012 10:12:15 GMT 1
"its not that hard" explain that to the Peg you fell on...
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Post by bojo on Jul 25, 2012 10:16:13 GMT 1
I do love Hen climbing though! I want to get back there soon but the weather is hindering me!
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
|
Post by Rónán K on Jul 25, 2012 14:15:27 GMT 1
I would fall off a lot more on a 'real' E3. And it wasn't the actual move that was particularly hard, it was more my overcomplicating and getting myself into a position I couldn't get out of
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