benoit
Edward Whymper
Posts: 20
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Routes
Mar 28, 2012 13:41:55 GMT 1
Post by benoit on Mar 28, 2012 13:41:55 GMT 1
After one week of clipping bolts in Spain, back to trad and Fair Head!
Taoiseach * VS (4c, 4c) One of the classic VS multi-pitch. Start of the second pitch is tricky.
April Arête (April Variation Finish) ** E1 (5b) Tricky start, good gear, fantastic finish up the arête!
To the Mournes! Annalong Buttress:
Bilberry Bhutia VD Not a particularly nice route, except for the final moves which give nice exposure.
Thin Crack *** VS (4c) As Niall said. Awesome route, good gear. Do it!
Saturday, back at Fair Head! Conor and I teamed up and decided to visit the Binnagapple Area, where we warmed up on
December ** HVS (4c, 5a) Weird route, but nice. Start below a huge stone (feels like being in a cave), climb the corner, reaching for the sun. The gear is good, but the belay is a bit awkward (or maybe I set it too high?!). Second pitch is a double offwidth, yummy! Once past the offwidth, finish with a thoughtful move past an overhanging bulge.
Toby Jug ** E1 (5a, 5b) Could easily be run as one pitch, with a really good no hand rest before the second pitch. First pitch is nice, with some lovely jams. Second pitch has some class moves to pass an overhang. The rest is brilliant as well. A good route to test your jamming skills!
After all this jamming, back to the Prow for something different:
The Embankment *** E2 (5c) Awesome climbing on good spaced flat holds with good but spaced protection.
Sunday, tops off for power in March at Fair Head... surreal!
Lots of quality routes:
The Black Thief *** VS (4b) Rooney's first route at Fair Head. One of the classic VS. We all know how good this is, so if you haven't done it yet... what are you waiting for?!
Fáth Mo Bhuarta *** E1 (5b) Excellent route, really flowy, too bad it's not longer (24m). Felt quite easy for the grade. The route follows two parallel cracks. Bridging, jamming and bomber gear, what's not to like?!
Stone Mad HVS (5a) Rooney's first HVS. Good lead, nice route.
Marconi *** E3 (5c) Similar to the Embankment, but harder and with better protection. Thoughtful crux.
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Routes
Mar 28, 2012 22:14:48 GMT 1
Post by Rónán K on Mar 28, 2012 22:14:48 GMT 1
Fairhead also on Sunday. Absolutely glorious day, and a day of firsts: Rooney's first HVS, Benoit's first E3, and Niall's first E1 yay!
Curlew VS (4c)Niall, Rónán Nice route, not as hard as it looks, deserves stars!
Midnight Cruiser E1 (5b) Rónán, Niall Definitely a classic, never that hard and loads of good rests. Gear on demand! The crux is a brilliant foot and hands match move...yummy
Railroad E1 (5b) Niall, Rónán Niall's first E1 onsight and not an easy one at that. The top is pumpy. Good effort.
The Embankment E2 (5c) Rónán, Niall Climbed on Benoit's recommendation, never desparate but plenty of thoughful moves. Gear is spaced, I only placed 3 bits in the top 15m but could probably have placed a few micros if I had felt the need. Bring small nuts (and tricams of course).
Huzzah for Fairhead, huzzah for tops of for power in March, huzzah for Pizza Haven in Ballycastle BUT don't let Rooney try and drift round corners. THe drive in was definintely the crux, dangerous and exposed E3 (1b)
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Routes
Mar 30, 2012 21:26:35 GMT 1
Post by Rónán K on Mar 30, 2012 21:26:35 GMT 1
Got up to Buzzard's Roost today with Stuart. Hadn't been up there before, it's an incredible place! A proper adventure.
The first route we did is described as best being accessed by abseil, but we added another pitch and did it from the ground.
The Ledger HVS (5a, 5b) Rónán, Stuart 2nd ascent of this route I think, it's class! It's supposed to start from a ledge about 8m off the deck into which you abseil but we did it from the ground by climbing a short corner and then a short overhannging traverse then mantle onto the grass ledge. Scary and exposed, there is gear but if you fall off the move left you're hitting a big ledge. Belay on the grassy ledge to avoid ridiculous rope drag. Second pitch-the route proper-is absolutely class. Start up a corner and follow a series of ledges to where the wall steepens.At this point I went straight up but I think you're supposed to go left (easier, 4c). I ended up on a crappy tricam doing a massive reach to a juggy rail off a gaston, then heelhooking/mantling up to a hidden jug (of course the tricam falling out in the process) then moving left to the route proper and the most bomber thread on the planet. Mantle then finish up the steep juggy jutting blocks and belay off the big lump of tat I completely missed. If what I did counts as a new route then I'm calling it Heath Ledger...
THen we took a wander up into the back of the MASSIVE chimney that forms the Sheugh. It looks friggin' class - 30m of chimneying between 2 walls about 60cm apart. No gear naturally, except for the chockstones. Next time!
Hawk Walk (S 4a) Stuart, Rónán (Or perhaps should be called Hawk Run Before You Walk (VS 4c))
Stuart's first trad lead! My guidebook reading error sent him up the start of the adjacent HVS in error, climbing a rising traverse onto Hawk Walk. This was not easy! The crux involved a traverse left holding onto a grotty flat hold with feet on small edges. Then it's on to proper Severe climbing territory. Fair play to Stuart, he kept a cool head and placed bomber gear. His first ever gear placement was a tricam! Sweet! THe route was cleaned recently by Ian Rea. However, when I was removing some gear about halfway up the hold I was holding without warning ripped off and I was off - testing Stuart's first anchor (it held, bomber of course)! Pizza sized rock to the shin, ow! Good route though,a nd good lead from Stuart. First lead at Buzzard's Roost - how cool is that?
So much potential for new routes up there. Definitely heading back soon!
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Apr 2, 2012 21:09:46 GMT 1
Post by Browne-Bear on Apr 2, 2012 21:09:46 GMT 1
With the club away to Llanberis for the annual Trad trip, and with quite a few people unable to attend for a variety of reasons, an escapade to the Mournes was in order.
Two days of camping, climbing and craic. With good weather, what more could you ask for!
Headed to Lower Cove, with quite a few classic routes still to do - this made for a fantastic few days of climbing. The standard Russian Itinery is as follows;
- Pork Pies, Soreen Malt Loaf, Super Noodles and Tesco Chocolate makes excellent wild camping food. - The after-effects of said diet makes for interesting gastronomical effects. - Dry Mournes makes for dehydrated Niall. - VS climbs around 12 metres are short and spicy!
So teaming up with the Yorkshireman, after setting up camp, we made for Half Corner Buttress for a few warm up routes.
Kram VS 4c - Niall/Thomas
Nice route to start on. Not really all that difficult. Three bits of solid good gear (no doubt more), but the climbing was never hard. Soft for VS in my opinion, but a really nice route.
Kissing Kerry VS 4c - Thomas/Niall
Quite a nice route. Tom's first trad lead in nearly 8 months. Good gear where you need it. Easy climbing. Liking the slight "overhanging" nature of routes with a small roof at the moment.
Burning Hope HVS 5b * - Niall/Thomas
Lovely route. That call between gear or hold prominent in this route. Lovely delicate move from side finger lock to gaston to crimp. NICE! Solid HVS. Get on it.
Agag's Wall VS 4b *** - Thomas/Niall
Did this a few weeks ago. Good gear when you can find it. Takes good small gear (one that tends to be lack in a beginner rack - hence why beginner trad climbers jumping on this find it so bold!). Tom ran this one out a bit, on account of dropping most of his small nuts - eejit. Did the roof finish, which is good fun.
The Great Treacle Sponge Robbery E1 5b ** - Niall/Thomas
Great route. Bold start, protectable with a good microcam (thank god I have one!). Nearly did the early crux move of Meat Grinder by attempting to get into the crack. A bit of route description from Tony put me back on route. Nice traverse (apparently the crux of the route), felt quite easy. The crux for me was the balancy rockover/mantle onto a solid ledge. Gear was great throughout. Nice climbing in the upper half with solid slopey holds. Ah for Mournes climbing!
With that, we called it a day. Dinner of supernoodles, pork pie and chocolate to refuel and we called it a night.
Woke up the next day to Campbell and O'Haagen-daz arriving. With a breakfast of Soreen Malt Loaf, we made for Second Corner Buttress.
Gynocrat HVS 5a *** - Thomas/Niall
Did this a while back. Gear on demand! Lovely climbing. Definately one of the best HVS's in the Mournes. Tom cruised up it - no longer feeling the effects of his tendon damage!
Aristocrat E1 5b *** - Niall/Thomas
Great climbing. Bold start, some delicate moves. Gear is great though, the traverse is well protected. Definately the crux of the route was the inital traverse. Loved it. Great route to start the day with.
Krammed E1 5a - Thomas/Niall
Described as a poorly protected route. Quite true, as the gear is minimal, but what it there is good. Tom took his time on this, trying to work a sequence that didn't involve crimping on his bad hand. In the end, twas irrelevant as his was forced to crimp on it anyway.
Half Corner VS 4b - Niall/Thomas
Nice route. Jamming fun, with good solid gear. Some nice funky moves. Good lead of this by Michael before hand.
Overdue E2 6a ** - Thomas/Niall
Given E1 5c in UKC, but the guide gives this. Unfair to downgrade because of height issues. Great route. Fantastic sequence of moves around the crux, with some solid gear to protect it. After that, you arrive to a good ledge for a nice rest. One for the future for me. Great
Reeling Rosie VS 4c - Niall/Thomas
Strange route. Sparse gear. Climb up to a good ledge, place two bomber cams. Then do a fantastic mantle up to a good slopping ledge. Place a further tricam, and the route is done. Short and spicy - similar to every VS at Half Corner Buttress. Nice route.
With that we called it a night. Rained during the night, and with the prospect of it getting worse, we called the trip to a halt. Headed to Newcastle for some pub grub and a few pints. All in all a great few days of climbing.
The trad season has well and truely begun...
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Apr 7, 2012 21:41:05 GMT 1
Post by bojo on Apr 7, 2012 21:41:05 GMT 1
I am pretty sure Niall has covered our jolly jaunt to cove so I shall get straight to Hen on Thursday.
With the week off and the weather clearing up Michael, Toni and I decided to head out to the paradise of Hen. After Michael's lift sleeping in and Toni getting a flat on the way we eventually made it and managed to fit in a few climbs between soloing and general tom foolery.
Yeni Gol (Variation A) VS 4b AltLd Toni , Thomas Toni's first HS pitch and a good lead it was! Opted for the bold 2nd bitch for added spice!
It was now Michaels turn so he decided to spend 67 dog years playing on jump route before down climbing and luring me into climbing The Drain... Bastard!
The Drain HVS 4c Lead Thomas, Michael Described as constantly wet, it lived up to its reputation. Ignoring the dirt and wet the climbing was rather enjoyable, though it was difficult to ignore slipping on moist smears.
Toni and Michael then went off to climb Fingerbowl while I got the camera out and took pictures of cows and a spree of soloing began.
Before jumping on Dreams of Distance, which I had been eyeing up I thought I would test out the friction on Main Street E1 5c * Solo Great route which I have lead before... Soloing is fun (Don't tell Begley)!
Dreams of Distance E2 5c Lead Michael Short but technically sustained. between screaming NO NO NO and making gear Nests the climbing was fantastic. delicate slab followed by a great move up to the base of an overhand topped off with a massive mantle.
All in all a fantastic day out at Hen with great weather. In an attempt to fit some climbing in between the bad weather Stephen and I headed out to Spellack.
Single Berth S 4a Lead Thomas, Stephen Simpson A nice route to start with. Afterbirth E1 5b * Lead Thomas, Stephen Simpson A great route though dirty in the pea pod and very dirty finish. some creative rests can be found aka, chicken wings, knee bars etc
Finally its Stephens turn!
Double Berth S 4a 2nd Stephen Simpson A good lead by Stephen! Congrats on the first lead!
All in all the Anti Wales trip was a resounding success. First Trad of the season... YEEEAAAAHHHH
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Apr 7, 2012 22:53:04 GMT 1
Post by Duckfeet on Apr 7, 2012 22:53:04 GMT 1
Me and the decidedly hairier Thomas headed to Cove on Sunday with the plan of camping out a few days. Landed late to find the less hairy Tom and the comparatively prepubescent Niall still asleep! Me, hairy Tom and Tony Fearon eventually headed to first corner where we found 5 guys from Jordanstown. Craic ensued.
First Corner HS 4b - Michael/Thomas Meant to do the leftward 4b variation but didn't read guide book. Ended up finishing between North Wall and 1st corner on something daft.
New Decayed S 4a** - Thomas/Tony 3m up Thomas was tugging on his first bit of gear to test it. Gear popped and Thomas fell head first. Amazingly Tony fully caught him, throwing him softly into me. A trip to daisy hill became a sore ankle and Thomas powered through the root on adrenaline. Quote; "Clove-hitches are hard to tie because my hands won't stop shaking". Moral of the story, always have a goalie spotting you.
Half-Corner VS 4b - Michael/Tony First VS, eventually. Climbed up to a jamming crack, remembered I hate jamming, down climbed. Got courage back, climbed up to the jamming crack, remembered I hate jamming, down climbed. Got laughed at by J-town, climbed up to the jamming crack, jammed and promptly found a ledge. Laced all around me while enjoying a hands free rest courtesy of a head jam and eventually climbed on. Moral of the story, I'm too fond of ledges/ a big jessie.
Kram VS 4c - Tony/Michael Basically gearless, Tony managed to protect the crux with an excellent tricam placement. Only his third lead and very bold. Way to earn that trophy!
Kram VS 4c - Michael/Tony Reassured by the previous second I jumped on lead. Failed to find the same tricam placement as Tony. Easier than Half-corner despite the grade! Moral of the story, grades can be bollocks.
Munching Mandy S 4a - Thomas/Michael Sick of limping around the bottom of the crag. Thomas decided to do some one legged climbing. With flashbacks of an ankle-less Gilmore at the PEC I belayed Thomas up it who found no difficulty on lead, even without a left foot. Moral of the story, Thomas should get on some HS routes!
Pillar Variant (John Begley Variation) S 4a*** - Tony/Michael Instead of going up the face of the flake on the first pitch, go into the corner just left of the flake and enjoy a big reach up on an undercling. Still severe grade climbing but lack of gear makes it spicy. Highly recommended! Tony had seconded the original route and preferred the J-Begs variation, as do I. We also were in agreement that the classic slopey second pitch felt harder than Kram.
A successful day rounded up by milky meat pies and undercooked pasta. Apparently less-hairy Tom has a deep hatred of dolmio? That night and the next day it rained so we reluctantly packed up and headed home. (Well Me, Niall and Less-hairy-Tom went for several pints in Newcastle then home).
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Routes
Apr 8, 2012 0:30:53 GMT 1
Post by Rónán K on Apr 8, 2012 0:30:53 GMT 1
So, Wales. A decidedly unconventional trip! Lessons of the trip;
-Big tents collapse in high winds/snow. -There is nowhere better to receive news of a job offer than Pete's Eats. - It can still snow (and snow, and snow, and snow!) in April. - Crib Goch by moonlight. Yes lad - Slate is odd. - Bring gaiters and maybe winter gear? - YODEL ROCK -Double Deckers. As always.
The traditional uber-early start got us in Dublin with plenty of time, and we were in Llanberis avec Alek by about 2pm. Once set up, a visit to the Cromlech boulders in lovely weather! Nice spot.
Monday Predictably, the weather crapped out a bit. A few people went to Milestone to climb, tohers when to Pen Yr Ole Wen. Myself, John 'Jap's Eyes Everywhere' O;Hara, Chris (Connolly) and Fluorescent D did the North Ridge of (Bitches be) Tryfan. Absolutely lovely, the trick is to pick the hardest possible line, then scramble down a dodgy gully past a couple of tat anchors. Spend the rest of the afternoon listening to Yodel Rock (Focus - Hocus Pocus. Superb. Yodelling, a scat solo, and JAZZ FLUTE!) while waiting for the ones on Milestone. At one point I scrambled up a wet gully to offer assistance to Sinéad and Tony - in time to watch Tony throw the rope into a tree while abseiling. Much hilarity! Ended the day in Pete's Eats where I checked my email and found out I got a placement for next year with EDF - Wooohooo!
Tuesday Weather was a bit iffy so a late start saw us at Bus Stop Quarry. My first taste of slate, unusual rock.
Equinox (VS 4c) Rónán, Sinéad A soft touch but the gear seemed suspect - how solid is the rock? Hmm. Nice climbing though.
First Stop (F5) and Septuagenarian (F6a) climbed between showers to get used to the rock. Chalk was useful not so much for hands but to help dry the holds. Both quite easy. Was about to attempt Fools' Gold but the weather crapped out. Highlight was watching Alek as the archetypical fish out water sport climbing and getting hailed on mid pitch! Luckily there was a rope beside him to ab off. Tuesday night it started snowing, and didn't really stop. We went to the pub but when we came back one tent was destroyed and the 6-man had collapsed. Cue damage control in a blizzard and a mass retreat to the bunkhouse for those left without a bed. Those of us whose tents survived soldiered on through a night of character building.
Wednesday Awoke to a foot of snow at the door of the tent. Weather still crap. Went to the Beacon climbing wall and saw Nick Bullock and Dick Turnbull. Discovered (again) that I'm crap at overhangs.
Thursday Absolutely GLORIOUS weather. Cool and crisp, initial plans to go to the slate quarries were abandoned in favour of an Alpine day out in the snowy hills! Myself and Sinéad headed to Idwal and broke trail through oft waist-deep snow to reach
Sub Cneifion Rib (VD/Scottish II 3 ish?) Rónán, Sinéad The starting slab was under 5mm of ice so a heathery/bouldery ramp had to be negotiated to get on-route. This involved clearing a lot of snow from holds and heathery rockovers. Ignore the rock, aim for the heather! Once you reach rock, ignore smears and haul and rockover on jugs in gloves. Nut key very useful for clearing ice from crucial footholds. Crux 3rd pitch involves a dynamic rockover from a crimp to hug an arete then very dubious icy smears to a heathery mantle. All very interesting in walking boots and no winter gear. Sinéad cruised it on second!
We then ploughed (literally) on through the snow to the outstanding
Cneifion Arete (Diff) Rónán, Sinéad Moved together throughout. An Alpine ridge, out of context! The start is some improbable looking and exposed jug-pulling up a groove then a deep chimney, followed by superb Alpine scrambling with glorious views and exposure. The only downside is that it isn't twice the length! Topped out in time to meet Conor and Colleen coming down from Glyder Fawr. Yay for mountains. Got back to Llanberis and met VLADIMIR! Yay for Double Deckers. Big birthday for himt his week; his present - DOuble Decker Easter Egg. Dan (whom we met at the ORange House last year) came in at 9pm and suggested a moonlit ascent of Crib Goch. Conor, Alek and myself obliged, so at 10pm we set off up the pass, and by 2230 were on the nevee of the path. A furious pace saw us atop the ridge, sans head torches, by 2350 - lovely easy scrambling in an exposed position. Summit beers; Conor and Alek decide to carry on with the Snowdon Horseshoe, myself and Dan descend the scree to the path. No-one at base awake so I leave Dan back in the G-mobile then come back up to wait for C and A and fall asleep in the car. They return at 0330, can't find the key - windows are steamed up so they don't see me inside for 10 mins! A superb day, a superb evening - Crib Goch is brilliant, especially so by the full moon on a clear night.
Friday John Orr - "There's always somewhere to climb in North Wales." Weather iffy again so Tremadog. Those not involved in late night adventures head to the land of sandbags early. Those involved in late night adventures leave towards mid-day.
The Fang (HVS* 5a 5a) Conor, Rónán (alt Ld) (* - Joe Brown)
We only had energy for one route so decided to go for a good one. Conor led pitch one, tricky climbing with gear on demand, then a belay on a 1 ft wide ledge. Getting onto this on second was interesting, especially as rope had manifested itself around my neck. Pitch 2 was my lead. Some of the scariest climbing I've done. Placed gear amongst the belay to negate a F2 fall then thin moves on crimps lead to a gearless delicate traverse to a step down on a sloping arete/ledge. place shite gear then creep around the arete on smears, pray for gear, find noe, keep going to good handhold but bad foothold, place decent gear, get pumped, do big mantle and breathe. Proceed with caution up final slab on mostly crap small wires and don't fall. Fair play to Monsieur Difficile Pour Le Grade in 1961. Mentally taxing.
Then Eric's café, what a legend, definitely earned that moustache with his base jumping, Everest ballooning and Eiger soloing antics.
Saturday Planned early start to hit the slate foiled by rain Home. Pack wet gear. Puss in Boots on Boat. YODEL ROCK
So, Wales. Did 0 of the routes I had planned but had a great time. Couldn't have been more of a contrast to the Peak Trip last year if it were Alek wearing a tutu whilst explaining the concept of Chess to Charles the Chicken.
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Apr 10, 2012 17:47:19 GMT 1
Post by sinead10 on Apr 10, 2012 17:47:19 GMT 1
QUBMC Wales Trad Trip.
So we all set off to Wales on Sunday I like ferries they are cool... So the first day (Monday) myself, Tony, Leah, Tim and Thomas went to Milestone Buttress to climb a multipitch. Tim, Leah and Thomas set of to climb Rowan Route and myself and Tony decided to climb : Pulpit Route (VDiff**) Tony, Sinéad Alt Lead Nice to start off with and slowly became very interesting (Tony lead 1st pitch, 3rd and 4th pitch) The 2nd Pitch involved a rummage in a holly bush for a karabiner (woo trophy gear) Using the tree to go over a slight over hang bit lead for interesting rock overs and trusting the feet. All I was thinking was this does not feel like a VDiff. Then we came to the chimney (trying to find it was interesting and confusing) Tony bravely opted to lead it however we only decided to enter the chimney a quarter the way up (hard work). Tony went over the boulder in the chimney and on second I easily fitted under it (which involved alot of squirming and squiggling) however the rope got trapped and I had to attached myself to a nut and untie and retie (this added to the comedy of the whole route - if you didn't laugh you would cry lol) the chimney felt more like a HS (why do I always end up in chimney routes even if I dont mean too mmmm) Now for the descent even more funny trying to find the descent gully (seeing Rónán quickly screamed is this the right way and he pointed in the direction we needed to go) however with showers between and during climbing the route made the gully wet and in rock shoes it became pretty dangerous so we found some tat and decided we should ab down it. Then Rónán cruised up it to help the rope go down the gully however when Tony threw the rope it ended up stuck in the tree lol... good times. Wet and miserable we headed to the car and dinner in Pete's ates. Every climbing day is a good day TuesdaySlate Quarries between the showers was hit Equinox (VS 4c) Rónán, SinéadNice route I kinda like slate, however can become heightest as you have only got the holds there and you can't really smear - so major rock-overs were to be hard. Awesome route First Stop (led) (F5) - strange doing sport on a trad trip wasn't used to it... was cool Septuagenarian (top-ropped) (F6a) - really nice route. Wednesday Beacon Climbing Wall ThursdayThe best day in terms of sunshine and dryness so myself, Rónán, Bumbles the Bee, Colleen and Conor decided this was a out in the hills (long day) day. Made the best decision had a epic day. In snow it made it even more epic as I got stuck up to my shoulders in snow and couldn't get out (kinda scary) but laughed when I got out with so much effort. *lots of snow makes it difficult for shorties hehe. So Sub Cneifion Rib (VDiff - in the snow was wierd in climbing in boots but under the snowy circumstances we had to, I thought I would really struggle but having been the Alps I turned to Alpine Mode and cruised up it, at the crux I considered changing into rock shoes but I Manned up and I never stretched so much in my life trying to get up a blankish slab (groin pain ouch) (so much easier in rockshoes but I'm glad I did it in boots Awesome route don't know what it would have been like minus the snow but I think it was the snow that made it epic -Ohhhh and using a nut key to scrap of ice from holds very useful tool (why did you not think of it Rónán Then we went to do Cneifion Arete (Diff)We moved together on this (glad we did) was a wee bit airy/ridgy/alpy... just awesome felt like I was doing a mini Alpine ridge/route... and I of course ended up in a mini chimney at the crux (Rónán could not fit in it ) Friday Myself and Colleen (my wee Betsi) decided to climb together in Trem-a-dog. Led of to an interesting start trying to find a route that was not preoccupied so we hit: Valeries Rib (HS) 3 Pitch Sinéad, Colleen, SinéadWe still had to wait on it as some jessie woman couldn't get up the crux of the second pitch (was funny and annoying at the same time took her about 40 minutes) So of I began on the first pitch - harder than expected looks easy (looks are deceiving as colleen found out Colleen led the second pitch - Fair play was awesome but soo much harder than HS (We bought thought this) Still awesome moves and rock overs are required (one thing I learned in Wales How to rock over whoop whoop). Last pitch involved trees and twigs and branches (easy last pitch) I though I would be funny and put a sling around three twigs for the laugh... Nice route glad I did it (and I didn't fall off whoop whoop) Nice climbing with a girly Then came the end of our journey with bruised knees and no falling ended up a good trip... If the weather had been good we would have got so much more done but that the luck of the draw... Alek you love Bumbles the Bee
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joh
Edward Whymper
Posts: 36
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Routes
Apr 11, 2012 14:53:50 GMT 1
Post by joh on Apr 11, 2012 14:53:50 GMT 1
Buchaille Etive Mor - via "The Best Day in Glencoe" | SNOW
This route is an alternative to the obscure, ill-defined, overrated and frankly rocky "Curved Ridge", and much easier to follow: Firstly, gain a stance several hundred metres from Curved Ridge. From here follow Curved Ridge, as shown in the guidebook topo, for none of its length, via a series of snow ramps.
It is a long-standing tradition on TBDIG to shout to other parties on the route. The following exchange is typical:
"What are you(s) doing?!" "Curved Ridge! Yourselves?" "Tryin' to find Curved Ridge! Is this it?" "Aye I think so."
As I say, this is tradition and should not be taken too literally. In fact TBDIG is obvious by its complete dissimilarity to Curved Ridge, having no ridge or rock-like qualities whatsover. TBDIG is an adventurous route that contains many more dead-ends than are typically included in lesser climbs, and frequent consultation with the guidebook should be considered normal. The uninitiated should be aware that although in such cases it may seem that they are at "that bit of Curved Ridge", this is seldom true.
FA: Conor "This is Curved Ridge" Gilmour, John "Never been lost" Monkey king of babylon (Winter 2012)
Note: Being lost is good, and guidebooks are overused, especially in the mountains!
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Buchaille Etive Mor - via the north buttress | w/ J Orr and M McKeever | some sort of rocky face and chimneys With axes and crampons = eternal shame.
Ben Nevis - via Castle Ridge (not Tower Ridge) | w/ The Bearded One | Big snowy ridge Crux is the type II walk after "the route"! size 3 nut +1
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Toe Wrecker | VS 4c | w/ Dan Patterson | Granite cracks and bowls Brilliant, with unusual moves for the mournes. Finish up the non-grassy cracks.
Edelweiss, first half thereof | E2 6a | Granite flakes and SLAB Getting to the peg is okay. Then you must venture, somehow, into the unnerving blankness. After planning, but not quite doing, several hopeless sequences, and after abandoning your better judgement, and after hope-tinged despair leads you through the first two unlikely metres of an unholy and tenuous marraige between rubber and rock, you may well find yourself above the peg in the only (just-)stable position for about a metre radially. And perhaps you won't have to test that peg… Did not finish, and despite a mini-siege, could not even destroy the peg. Class!
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An Bealach Rúnda | 3 pitches | E1 5b | w/ Owen | 105m dolerite caving, off-widths, pillars, chimneys and cracks! The first pitch is unlike any other route at Fairhead and is good squirmy fun. Everyone WILL love this. Bring big cams and enjoy. Owen led second pitch which is also good. Do it.
Hell's Kitchen | 2 pitches | HVS 5a | w/ Owen | 60m dolerite corner crack Memory failure, led second pitch again. Woops. Do it.
Equinox | 2 pitches | E2 5b | w/ Owen | 60m dolerite corner crack I led the first pitch this time, owen the second. Got massively pumped in crux layback (there isn't a decent jam in the thing), but just about held it (literally) by abandoning conventional gear organization. Both pitches are enjoyably hard. Do it.
size 10 nut +1
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Tryfan - via Impromptu Route Indirect | 770m GPS +1
Solstice | HVS 5a | w/ The Anti-Chris(t) Connolly | slate flakes A large chunk of this is no longer a large chunk of this. A slightly terrifying but great crux sequence.
German Schoolgirl | E2 5c | w/ Connolly | 20m slate corner The meltwater came down a lot faster than I was going up. Many holds were full of the stuff and small I-would-like-to-put-my-foot-there edges were thus avoided, but there must be a way… Fantastic!
Comes the Dervish | E3 5c | w/ Connolly | 40m slate crack and roof One silly footswap slip (and pop!) at the diagonal. It's kind of the same move over and over for the most part. I highly recommend bringing f-loads of micro wires (and a nutkey).
The Grasper | 2 pitches | E2 5c | w/ Benoit | dolerite roofs, cracks, corner and arete! Varied and unusual climbing. I did the roofy first pitch, benoit the arete-humping second. Would be absolutely brilliant to do the whole thing in one pitch. Even just getting to the base of the "actual route" is an enjoyable jungle scramble.
Vector/One step in the clouds | 4 pitches | E2 5c | w/ Benoit | dolerite cracks and slabs Benoit did the first pitch. I climbed the excellent and classic second pitch ("ochre slab"). Polished and heavily chalked but the awesomeness of the positions remains. After swiss's meeting with polish on the third pitch, and subsequent disengagements with the rock, I resolved this vector into different components than was suggested. size 10 nut -1
All recommended! even Scotland.
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owenl
Edward Whymper
Posts: 34
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Routes
Apr 13, 2012 21:37:40 GMT 1
Post by owenl on Apr 13, 2012 21:37:40 GMT 1
A few notes/confessions on the aforementioned Fairhead trip To reinforce Mr JOH’s An Bealach Rúnda recommendation; this is one of the most fun things you can do at Fairhead, so do it! The start of the 2nd pitch is fantastically exposed. And to stay honest I’ll admit to resting on gear on the 2nd pitch of equinox. Was very close to the ledges when the arms failed me. Beautiful climb though and very similar to Hell’s kitchen but with a bit more bite to it. To finish the trip I attempted fireball. At this point I was shattered but John’s words from the day before came to mind “I like trying something that I don’t think I can do. Then I usually do it anyway” About halfway up the crack I realised I wasn’t going to live up to this philosophy and made use of my fine cam collection to rest and aid up the crux and collapse/finish. Some Donegal conclusions More recently I met up with Alek and Conor to walk across the hills of Donegal. We parked a car on each end of and then raced across the Glover route (or that’s how we started anyway). www.simonstewart.ie/Glover/glover.htmIt’s a good route with a few scrambly bits if you want them. A few showers passed over but mostly it was spectacular views in all directions. As usual on long routes I started fine and then died towards the end. By the time we reached Errigal I was plodding and the others were well ahead. Conclusions- -Alek is unaffected by distance -Working indoors makes you weak. -Water is like stamina and strength, it’s a good thing to have in excess Managed a few routes and some bouldering the next day at Dunmore Head in Culdaff Orange blossom (Owen, Alek)- A nostalgic and comfortable one for me, Cheatin Bitch (Alek, Owen)- Good lead from Alek, this route gives some really weird positions, Just around the corner from this crag is a magnificent overhanging wall. Which at the very least will provide some tricky bouldering. Overall conclusion - Donegal is as awesum as ever.
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Routes
Apr 13, 2012 22:48:21 GMT 1
Post by Rónán K on Apr 13, 2012 22:48:21 GMT 1
bloody thing deleted what I'd written, so a short summary.
Ben Crom yesterday, with Conor, Alek, Benoit, on bikes. Fun but probably no quicker on balance than walking from Ott as Conor's bikes ALL EXPLODED no they didn't but he did have to pedal back with one foot...
Planxty E1 5b Rónán, Benoit A fight, this one, but managed it. Thoughtful climbing to good gear under roof then commit, swing round, power through. Then easier. Worth doing.
The Slug E1 5b, 5b Benoit, Rónán alt leads Pitch 1 follows Aries to ledge, tricky moves past bulge. 2nd pitch follows improbable traverse that doesn't look like it'll work but does. Finished up Chimney Route as recommended in guide. Second needs to be as good as leader. Superb and exposed.
Pisces E1 5c, 5a Benoit, Rónán Altd leads Excellent and varied route, Benoit had to do extreme gardening on lead. Digging for holds mid crux overhang...effort. 2nd pitch easier but needed gardening also. Fun times.
Nearly lost rucksack to reservoir on descent but didn't. Mournes 1 Rónán 1
Today general larking and soloing about at Hen with Alek, Benoit, Stuart and Tony. Weather not great so messed about on Chicken Boulder at first, slab easier than I remember and the sit start arete is fun. Then up to summit, East Arete (M) in boots in the rain providing some sport. Tour of the crag in the rain then when it stopped, solos of Escalator (D) Escalator Direct (S) Escalator Direct start and Jump Route VS 4c which had me flumoxed for a while, thoughtful moves, fun and scary. Boulder problem Elevator Tim is class. Finished off on the routelette/boulder problems above the boulder at the top of the gully and on the problems on the boulder itself, superb frictiony crimpiness, yum.
Yay friction.
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Routes
Apr 15, 2012 20:34:31 GMT 1
Post by Rónán K on Apr 15, 2012 20:34:31 GMT 1
Fairhead at the weekend with the Begley making it 4 on the trot! Yay for climbing.
Headed up Saturday morning with many's a cam! Reaching the crag we abbed down beside Roaring Meg and decided on the adventurous
An Bealach Rúnda E1 4c, 5b, 4c Rónán, John, Rónán (alt ld) First pitch is some of the msot fun I've had while climbing. A slab leads to a 12m chimney (warm up), then a ledge, then 35m of full on chimneying! Back jammed against the improbable detached column, worm up using a combination of heel-toes, chickenwings, arm bars and all sort of witchcraft that you learn quite fast. Ended up practically sitting down at one point with both feet out flat against opposite walls. A climb that has to be seen to be believed. Bring big cams. John led pitch 2, but by the time I got on it I was freezing - the sun never touched us all day and I lost feeling in my toes. The moves off the ledge to the detached pillar are airy - then some awkward climbing leads tot he crux. Numb toes, fingers and general coldness meant I had to pull on the Begley-gear through the crux. I'm a bad person. Pitch 3 was grand, finishing up a steep 4c crack. Took 4 hours or so overall. Chimneying is fun!
Then we got to watch a helicopter rescue (fisherman who fell among the boulders). interesting! Then camping and Spag Bol at Murlough. Mmmm.
Also, Benoit and Owen deserve a mention for finishing An Goban Saor at half past midnight!
Today (Sunday) Learned a lesson and went to the suntrap of The Prow.
Fáth Mo Bhuartha (E1 5b) John, Rónán Led this before, harder and pumpier than I remember. Still class though.
Marconi (E3 5c) Rónán, John Looked safe so had a go at it. Just about managed it, woo first E3. Steadily increasing difficulty with good gear and loads of rests if you can find them. Crux is right at the top, less gear but good gear below you. Unusual bridgey palmy smeary goodness with a contrived hands off rest in the middle. Good fun.
Then we all decided we were wrecked and went home. A good couple of days.
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Routes
Apr 16, 2012 14:31:15 GMT 1
Post by bojo on Apr 16, 2012 14:31:15 GMT 1
Top effort on Marconi Ronan! Looking to do this over the coming months.
With the weather looking good for the weekend Kev and I headed up to murlough bay with a van full of more gear and psych than everyone in the club combined!
Friday night, as the sun set over Fairhead, we headed down to the letter M boulder to try and absorb some of the psych so there would be enough room to sleep in the van. With head torches set up we played around on the below until about midnight:
Ricky's Slab font 3 Brought to You by the Letter M font 5+ *** Crazy Arete font 6a Moon Man Direct font 6c
With some quality bouldering filling us with buckets of confidence, a big day involving the Classic E4 Jolly Roger was being planned...
Saturday
Tired from all the previous nights’ bouldering we slept in only to be woken by Owen before falling straight back to sleep. When we finally got moving we headed over to Binnagapple which is one of the most impressive looking walls at fairhead.
Still with Jolly Roger in mind we started on Toby Jug ** E1 5b Alt Leads Tom, Kev A great route with a fantastic second pitch. Lovely jamming as expected at fairhead!
with Toby Jug in the shade we were freezing our asses off to abandoned the plan for Jolly Roger and headed over to the Ballycaste descent gully to warm up in the sun.
April E1 5b * lead Tom, Kev A great little route with an odd start! we gave up on the guide book and took the hardest possible line to the top and it was an entertaining little number.
With confidence running high and more Cams than Cotswolds We headed round to the classic E3 multipitch
Ocean Boulevard E3 5c, 5b ** Alt Leads Kev, Tom Oh Sweet Mary! just looking up at this steep finger/hand crack corner you get an odd combination of salivating and shitting bricks! after about 10/15 metres of scetchy scrambling up you arrive at a roof. Looking up from the roof there is a never ending finger crack up a very steep groove. bring on the sustained laybacking/smearing/jamming/crying/bleeding/fingerlocking/AMAZING climbing for about 15/100(that’s what it felt like) metres before gaining a ledge where you can collect yourself and make a belay. This was a fantastic lead by Kev spending the whole time during the crux on top rope as he placed so much gear! After I had finished watching the Helicopter rescue and recovering from the first pitch it was time for the crux... climbing over Kev to start the second pitch! The second pitch provides some excellent climbing taking a crack through a series of roofs providing steep overhanging climbing including placing gear on knee bars finishing up an exposed corner. Route of the weekend?
<Insert Benoit/Owen epic here>
As it was getting late and we were at the wrong end of fairhead we decided to take the direct approach and cut inland to get back to the van...MISTAKE. after a long boggy, confusing, never ending period of time the van suddenly appeared out of no where. Teleport? We filled up on food tea and a glorious beer before giving Benoit/Owen up for dead and going to sleep. (good news they are alive!)
Sunday After abbing down the Brasser yesterday to do Toby Jug we couldn’t get this lay backing giant of a route out of our minds so off we went back to Binnagapple.
The Brasser *** E2 5c Alt Leads Kev (pitch 1), Tom (pitch 2) Pete What an incredible line. Classic fairhead groove worth every star, The Brasser takes lay backing to a new level. Once you have entered the crux sequence (hard!) you are in the business for 15 metres. a complete blank face with no foot holds just hardcore smearing and finger locks leading up to a widening crack. Time to start jamming hands and feet until an incredible move out to the best hold in the history of climbing! As usual kev spent the whole time on top rope with gear well above him. the second pitch is just as good as the first with a long steep/slightly overhanging flake occasionally wide enough to get your fingertips in. Strong powerful moves make for enjoyable climbing up to a tricky finish! Route of the weekend. Scratch that Route of the year!!
With Binnagapple getting chilly we headed over to the small crag. Though rarely climbed there are some gems down there that are well worth climbing. A great safe place to learn to Jam!
The Jungle Line VS 4c * (Deserves 3 stars) Pete, Kev, Tom Why dont people climb at the small crag more? Fantastic jamming crack that is longer than you expect. A perfect place to learn to jam!
One Crack Mind HVS 5b * Save as houses with a define crux about half way up. Hand jam+toe jam + smear = glory great climbing
Summary of the trip: Fairhead = Best crag in Ireland Recycle gear! Fairhead sheep are brain damaged (but in an amusing way) When 2 people are climbing the same route at the same time (one on each half rope) it is not wise for one person to tickle the others legs!!! If you climb with Benoit, be willing to climb until past midnight Helicopters make it impossible to hear your belay and you have to rely on predefined rope tugging signals which are similar to pulling a rope though to clip gear... sketchy
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benoit
Edward Whymper
Posts: 20
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Routes
Apr 16, 2012 15:15:30 GMT 1
Post by benoit on Apr 16, 2012 15:15:30 GMT 1
I haven't reported anything in a while, hence the long post!
Nothing like a good day at Lower Cove to warm up before Wales!
Cartilage * VS (4b, 3c) Not bad, but not as good as the description suggests. Share the belay of Swing Low.
Brewer's Corner *** E1 (3c, 5c) Rooney wanted to do Brewer's Gloom, but the 3rd pitch is the same as the 2nd pitch of Cartilage, so we opted for this excellent variant. A short but committing corner. The gear is good, but the ledge below is close...
Primitive Dance * E1 (5b, 4c, 4c) First pitch is short, but has some really nice moves. Second pitch is a traverse of the second buttress with some interesting crouching below a roof...!
Wales!!
Braich Ty Du Face * 2 Good scrambling opposite to Tryfan. We climbed up crossing some chimneys on the way and climbing whatever looked fun (pretty much everything!).
Serengeti:
Fool's Gold ** E1 (5c) Conor, Benoit First route on slate, awesome!
Slippery People *** E2 (5c) High first bolt, hence the trad grade. Crux is class and well protected. Only two bolts.
Seamstress *** VS (4c) Lovely route, if a little bit too short. Flows really well, good gear.
Vivian Quarry:
Last Tango in Paris ** E2 (5c) Nice! Traverse right on two parallel slanting cracks about 1.5m apart. Then a good stance and rest before the left slanting crack and the bulge/roof to overcome with some balancy moves, exciting!
Tremadog:
The Grasper *** E2 (5c, 5c) (FA: Joe Brown...) Good lead from John on the first pitch, tricky bulge/roof to overcome. You can see a good jam, the crux is to figure out how to reach it. Second pitch is an overhanging corner with lots of bridging and palming. The finish is fantastic, move left to the arête and "ride" it to the top!
Vector *** E2 (5a, 5c, 5b/c, 4b) (FA: Joe Brown...) The positions are really nice, but the quality of the route is lowered down by it being so polished and heavily chalked (even random useless holds are over chalked...).
Back to Northern Ireland!
Ben Crom:
Planxty * E1 (5b) Good lead from Rónán!
The Slug ** E1 (5b, 5b) As reported by Rónán. Finished up Chimney Route as recommended in the guidebook.
Pisces * E2 (5c, 4c) Awesome route, great varied climbing. Start with a short layback on a flake that was made to be climbed. Then a corner with the usual bridging and palming... then the crux... Digging the crux out of a thick layer of moss! Suddenly, the blank (green) looking wall reveals some holds and a perfect placement for a Camalot 3. Jam, dig a foothold out of the moss and do a few more cruxy moves to reach a nice belay ledge. One of the most varied pitch I have ever done. Do it (now that it is clean-ish)!
Fair Head
Aoife ** E1 (5b, 5a) Excellent route. The moves to overcome the flakes are class, the rest after is even better! If you haven't done it, do it!
An Gobán Saor * E1 (5a, 4c, 5b) Owen was up for some bad ass multi-pitch, so we opted for this route that we started quite late. The first pitch, led by Owen, involves lots of bridging/smearing/palming. A crack in a left corner, with a groove on your right to smear/bridge against. Class! This pitch took longer than expected to lead and took me longer than expected to second as I had to battle hard to get a few pieces of gear out. Not sure about the description of the route either. We didn't meet the good ledge at the end of the first pitch, nor the entertaining chockstone in the second. Anyway what we did would be better done as two pitches, except that Owen ran out of gear and had to set a hanging belay a few meters below a good ledge. The short 2nd pitch took Owen also a bit longer than expected as the temperature was rapidly dropping and toes and fingers were getting numb... By the time I started the 3rd crux pitch, it was already dark and I had to climb with a headtorch. Everything started well, until I decided to deadpoint to a flat hold. Mid-deadpoint the headtorch suddenly decided to switch itself off and I found myself in pitch black, hanging from two crimps. I somehow remembered where the previous foothold was and managed to blindly down climb to a decent position to switch the headtorch on again. The rest of the route was quite sustained (or maybe I missed some crucial footholds... it is hard to see some holds and good smear with a headtorch), and with the headtorch shutting down once in a while it made for quite an interesting adventure... It could have been faster to aid the climb, but I can be quite stubborn and refused to resort to such dark methods. Back to the camp site (Murlough car park) at 1:30am followed by what is probably the fastest tent pitching ever. Long day, but what a day! All in all, an excellent route, that could use more traffic, as it was a bit green in places.
Stone Mad/Sabre Ratler * (H)VS (4c) First piece of gear for Sabre Ratler is at 12m. Owen didn't fancy it, so started up Stone Mad, before moving back left to finish up Sabre Ratler. Nice combination.
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Routes
Apr 16, 2012 15:27:48 GMT 1
Post by bojo on Apr 16, 2012 15:27:48 GMT 1
Anyone fancy putting together a QUMBC old and new weekend at fairhead report and send it to Fairhead climbers? An Gobán Saor is definitely worth sending in!
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