owenl
Edward Whymper
Posts: 34
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Routes
Sept 3, 2012 22:54:48 GMT 1
Post by owenl on Sept 3, 2012 22:54:48 GMT 1
Good work guys, ys must have done most of Lower Cove by now. We'll have to make up some rumours about Sunday.
Had a fine day running about with Thomas O’Hagan yesterday at Upper Cove. After a delayed start (I had to go recover some fell shoes from a car park) we got away from the carricklittle about 1130 and reached UpperCove by about 1245.
Winding Stair (Severe, OL-TOH) and Sharks Nose (Diff, TOH-OL) were quickly dispatched; moving together on the latter for the laugh.
We then investigated Tapestry buttress and headed up a mix of Touch and Tapestry (HSish, OL-TOH). Not the longest of routes, but superb quality and nice moves. The start being tricky and gearless I elected to move right to left.
Thomas was feeling characteristically strong and charged up Strongarm (Severe, TOH-OL). But it was clearly too easy for him and we both felt a misnomer.
Then we realised there was a rabbit sticking out of the cliff. And no route (directly) up to it! Right in the middle of the Drop Off buttress the bunny ears are a feature that call out to be swung on. A direct line up to it is possible and protected. The overhanging finishing moves are excellent. On 2nd Mr O’Hagan elected to swing onto Roisin Roulette but will surely return one day to overcome the pump and grap that bunny by the neck scruff.
Satisfied we ran home.
Note Tim O’Hanrahanrahanrahan sadly played no part in these events, any similarity to approximately spelt said person is a coincidence of initialling.
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Routes
Sept 5, 2012 15:30:27 GMT 1
Post by bojo on Sept 5, 2012 15:30:27 GMT 1
Nice to see upper cove getting some action! Still need to get up there.
As a change on Saturday Beniot and myself decided to go to lower cove... Starting to become addicted to this place. With the wind getting confused thinking it was at Fairhead we started on a very windy MeatGrinder.
Meatgrinder E2 5c TP , BD A great route which probably would have felt easy for the grade if it wasnt for the gale trying to blow me off the crux! Great sloping moves all protected by the awesome gear (eating a full set of tri cams, some nuts and some cams)
Edge on was calling..
Edge On E3 6b BD TP An interesting grade to say the least. It has since been up graded to E4 which didnt seem to make sense as it felt more like E2. On further inspection Benoit was too far left missing the 6b move but it was still a great climbing. lovely slopey bridgy moves. Wouldnt mind trying it without using the arete but it looks Nails!!
Feeling confident we moved onto Left Arete
Left Arete E2 5c Bold looking with little worth while gear but an amazing start. Fantastic powerful first few moves to a tricky mantle. this is as much as I can tell you as the rain came in destroying the friction!
After some craic and fish & chips in Kilkeel we headed back with talk of Fairhead on sunday.
FAIRHEAD!!! Blistering Barnacles Big Bad Boulders Brimming with Badass Bouldering
With the small crag looking like a midgy rave we headed bouldering down by the beach.
Warmed up around the elvis boulder with some great problems (Blue Suede Shoes 5+, jailbreak 6a, Little Less Conversation 6b, The Grapevine 6b) before running into Danaan and Co and heading over to Carbide and Eat it. in short Carbide is awesome, steep, tricky and I am just not strong enough! Eat it Left is Shoulder wrecking! Arete right of eat it is Exhausting! there seems to be a trend with fairhead bouldering...
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Routes
Sept 23, 2012 22:04:19 GMT 1
Post by bojo on Sept 23, 2012 22:04:19 GMT 1
Last week I managed to sneak in a little climbing on a trip back to Sheffield. With the weather not looking great we headed to Burbage north as the walking is about 30 seconds.
Climbing with my brothers girlfriend, who hasn't climbed for 3 years, I got to sample a good range of grades that Burbage had to offer. This included
Baseless HVD (5a start) short and reachy.
Triangle Buttress direct S 4a steep and juggy
Overhanging Buttress direct S4a Route of the day! lovely frictiony climbing with a slopey finish
And so begins the peak grading system...
Leaning wall direct HS 5a nice boulder problem start that eases quickly.
Pulcherrime VS 4b (HS?) short and sweet. A couple of jams and you are there. Its like 1 eighth of a fairhead route.
Beach Tea One HVS 6a Fantastic little route. Slopey technical climbing with an overhangy mantal finish.
Striker E3 6c Thought I would have a go to see what a 6c move feels like. ITS FUCKING NAILS!!! I was on this route for a total of about 8 seconds...
Climbing was complete and the 2 day hangover was set in motion.
with the weather looking positive and the cottage clean up cancelled, Conor, Rooney, Monkey king of babylon, Benoit, Niall(RON) and myself headed to Fairhead.
Climbing as a 3 Benoit, Conor and myself headed up The Darkness E1 5c Beniot, Me, Gilmour Didnt find any 5c moves but did find some lovely climbing! great jams with rests where you needed them. Feels a little eliminate staying in the one crack.
After Conor went for the worlds longest 'toilet break' we headed down to do Black Taxi. While walking around the bottom looking for the start of Black Taxi I changed my mind and headed over to Marconi
Marconi E3 5c Me, Benoit, Gilmour WOW! lovely face climbing for about 25 metres where you didnt even realise that you were on an E3. Then you look up and see a blank groove and suddenly realise where you are! All remaining cams placed and begin.... A great sustained crux where at no point you feel secure. half way through there is great place for a cam (oh wait I placed all my cams below...) so a dodgy will have to suffice. Topped out of my first E3 demanding Food and water followed by a lot of sleep on the way home.
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Routes
Nov 13, 2012 19:08:05 GMT 1
Post by Rónán K on Nov 13, 2012 19:08:05 GMT 1
Got out on Sunday with Brendan Bailey and Andy Thorley of SHAG (Scottish Hillwalking and Activities Group). Went to Cambusbarron quarry, just outside Stirling. Quite cold but one of the crags was dry so we went there. Loads of neds mountain biking on home made jumps in the quarry proper. Seconded Another One Bites the Dust/Malky the Alky (VS 4c), Ramplin' (S 4a) and Here Come the Mini Monks (S 4c oddly). Nice hot achey climbing on cold dolerite. I got to lead Doobie Brothers (E1 5b) ** Brilliant wee route, definitely felt out of trad practice. Felt like a Burren route on Fairhead rock! Funky moves past the crux but safe. Bailed at 3pm cos it just got too cold. NOt cold enough for winter yet though... but soon. Back to training on the autobelays at Braehead, the circuits at The Climbing Academy and the lead routes in the old church at Ibrox. Glasgow is good for climbing Donegal this weekend yay!
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owenl
Edward Whymper
Posts: 34
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Routes
Dec 9, 2012 23:05:04 GMT 1
Post by owenl on Dec 9, 2012 23:05:04 GMT 1
Sad to see the forum's quieted down. What have ys all been doing? Bouldering probably Anyway here's a summary of the latest Mourne shananigans. Twas an excellent run on sat with Mr Jason “I’ll bring all the apples” Slevin. In the spirit of our last devastating adventure we decided to arrive early and run /walk over all the summits we could manage in the Western Mournes. Leaving the fast at 7am we were awake and running by about 8ish and initially it looked good. A red sun was rising over Cock mountain (no innuendo) and we were getting into a decent stride. But then somewhere between LoughShannagh and Muck things started getting misty and we lost our panoramas. The landscape took on a ghost town vibe and we saw no more people. Visibility dropped to the point where I nearly ran into a badger on the summit of Shanlieve (badgers climb mountains, who knew)! So yeah, if you want to test your navigation on a misty day then this is the place. There was one low point while running/traipsing through the bog of despair (Shanlough area, we kept falling into holes) but apart from that it was a damn good stretch of the legs with some new summits I hadn’t been over before. Some cool wee ridges out there and plenty of opportunity to leave the path. As always we celebrated with takeaway in Newcastle (and then a night of company funded pints in Belfast for myself, still recovering). Next up - Mourne wall
- exploration of Antrim Glens
- Still haven’t climbed Carrauntoohill. Anyone interested in this over the coming holiday season?
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Dec 10, 2012 16:25:41 GMT 1
Post by Browne-Bear on Dec 10, 2012 16:25:41 GMT 1
Nope Owen, no bouldering - just tonnes of work unfortunately!
Managed to get a spot of Trad in last weekend up at Slieve Beg with Conor, Roisin and Matt Forde. Two experienced, two freshers - a teaching day!
Stiff walk in to Slieve Beg after a night on the Guinness (standard Niall Browne Friday Night). Met Paul Swail at the Commedagh Saddle who was out Mountain Biking - brief chat before heading round to the mighty Beg.
Had hoped to run up several easy-ish routes to give Matt a nice intro to Mournes climbing, and also to get a bit more experience seconding. However I had a complete nightmare with the route finding and subsequently did a harder route than I imagined.
Had intended on doing Satan's Slab - VDiff. Instead I did this...
Exorcised VS 5a - Niall Browne/Matt Forde
So I jumped on a "VDiff" and got this. Haven't climbed in the Mournes in a while so I had to get used to trusting the friction. Difficult with a novice belayer to be honest. However quite a lovely route. Fantastic gear all the way up it. Crux is low - follow a delicate undercling traverse below a 5m vertical step to a great right handed flake. Shift your hand up it further, get the feet high and power through the move. Bomber jug at the top of the step, and a solid cam.
Think it would be 5a because I was a bit out of practice, but definitely a hard VS move. After that, join the slab above and just enjoy the route.
Matt had a bit of difficulty with the crux move - didn't like the thought of falling despite being on top rope. Some gentle coaxing from Conor in the form of "Man the fuck up otherwise he will have to abseil down and retrieve the gear," and he was past the crux. Good effort.
Hands were like chunks of frozen meat by the end of the route!
With that, and with failing light we called it a day and headed back down. I waited in the car park with a goat for company (yes a goat!!) for Conor and Roisin to finish. 3 hours later, 3 pints later and they were back down (at ~8pm).
Home, dinner and a few beers in the house! Nice day all round!
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Rónán K
Anderl Heckmair
Piggly
President '11/'12
Posts: 180
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Routes
Jan 13, 2013 17:38:01 GMT 1
Post by Rónán K on Jan 13, 2013 17:38:01 GMT 1
Was up in Fort William this weekend with Brendan Bailie from SHAG (Scottish Hillwalking and Activities Group!). Went up the good ol' Ben yesterday, always a good slog. There was a big thaw last week but it cooled down in time for the weekend, and the snow that was left had turned into bomber nevee. The buttresses were starting to rime up nicely, too.
A blast up Coire na Ciste and we had several options@ Glover's Chimney, Comb Gully or Green Gully. Went for Green Gully. Note: for those looking to do GLover's in future, ascent the right hand side of Coire na Ciste and traverse in at the top. Easier.
Green Gully (IV, 4) Rónán, Brendan Great route. I got to lead P1 which was high-end IV as it was quite thin and mixed with little gear. Great fun though. The rest of the route felt reasonably easy for IV, with a couple of steepenings. Met John Orr at the 4th belay! HIghly recommended route. Topped out on a very busy Ben and dropped down No. 4 gully, which is marked by a cairn that looks like a massive knob. Far better way to descend than going down the tourist track. An Alpine-style day as it wasn't really miserable at all. Back down to Fort William and pub, pizza and bed.
Today we took the gondola up Aonach Mor but the chairlift wasn't running. The other climbers disappeared off toward the west face while we headed for the top with the intention of doing Left Twin. Breaking trail up under the chairlift, I noticed no-one else heading up. It was driving snow (snow level down below 100m today) and v. powdery with avalanche risk on eastern slopes. So we bailed at the chairlift and headed for the cafe. Met Blair Fyffe on the way down, who was heading up to check for avalanches as he works for SAIS. So a good call.
Bring on the trip next week! Forecast is looking excellent until then.
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joh
Edward Whymper
Posts: 36
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Routes
Jan 22, 2013 1:46:18 GMT 1
Post by joh on Jan 22, 2013 1:46:18 GMT 1
A forest the like of which one might see out east guards her, and it occupied us more than was desirable that night, never mind how long ago exactly. But myself and Messrs Owen, Jason and Conor saw her first at four score and ten minutes past the midnight hour. She wore the black veil of darkness and the white of snow, aye, and even the foulest wind couldn't unmask her. In the col of Donard, she stretches to the southeast and the northwest, wrapping round to meet herself, slithering almost eight leagues by some accounts, but there are few who really know. The gale blew across us as we battled uphill, northwest we had chosen, knowing each other only by our head-lanterns. The serpent was hardened with ice but her scaly ridges gave some purchase, enough to get us to the shelter of some hollow deformity atop the first mighty hump. We stopped but briefly before sliding down and around, following the snaky undulation as it unmasked itself by its transient proximity to our little glows. So we scurried on, but as we did, the darkness got thicker, the snow looser, the ice harder, and the storm fiercer. Such a chill burrows to your bones, but it finds the mind quicker — having hunted the creature for only but a pair o' leagues to the top of that hideous white whale they call Bearnagh, the doubt set in. Conditions were likely to worsen, tiredness would creep up on us (none of us had slept, and it was already affecting myself), and safety would fall further away as the challenge became tougher. We had had our fun, the sensible thing was to escape. It is not always easy to do the sensible thing, but in this case it was fairly easy. The beast would be there another day, and probably such conditions would not — was that good, or a rare chance wasted? We slid and stumbled away from victory and away from danger — those two mysterious fellows who in our fine pursuit enjoy each other's company. They're quite the double-act alright, but the only way to know for certain what sort of joke they're spinning is to blunder on through it. All for a laugh, eh? —Jonathon Bottomsworth Bigglesly-Charleston
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